A magnificent 43mm APO lens that takes the Leica Q model series to 'next level image quality'.
Always Wear A Camera, the Leica Q3 43 has it all. The built-in Electronic Viewfinder, the screen that tilts, low and high ISO, and no need for filters or special protection. It's simply the camera you grab that is always ready, and you can charge it on the go with any USB-C cable.
This is the continuous review and user report on the Leica Q3 43. To stay in the know and get updates, sign up for the free newsletter here (comes with a free eBook as well).
Here are the main takeaways that you need to know about the Leica Q3 43:
The Leica Q3 43 APO is equipped with an unique APO lens, and it is 43mm. Somewhat the correct answer to the request for many years for a 35mm or 50mm version.
Here is the difference illustrated with the help of the Leica D-Lux 8 (2024), which has a 24-75mm zoom.
The 43mm is a very comfortable focal length, close enough to the 50mm, with a comfortable extra zone of capture. Like the traditional 50mm standard lens, a 43mm creates a 'tunnel vision' where you exclude from the frame what is not part of the storytelling.
A 28mm wide-angle lens, as you know, captures more - about as wide as an iPhone camera - which can be handy for many things, but also makes it a challenge to exclude elements from the frame you might not want as part of your story.
Traditional 50mm standard lens frame.
Leica Q3 43 APO 43mm frame
Leica Q3 28mm frame.
Which lens are you?
Most people pick either 35mm or 50mm as their standard lens. Historically, the 35mm is the most sold Leica lens, and 50mm is right after. In that sense, a 43mm is a good answer to the question for most. Though there is more to this particular focal length, and more on that later.
I wrote this article, 'Which lens are you?' where I compare some of the well-known painters who, maybe surprisingly, had their preferred focal length.
Well-known painters had, maybe surprisingly, had their preferred focal length. Read about it in my article, "Which lens are you?".
Here is a comparison of Leica APO standard lenses:
Leica 35mm APO-Summaron-SL f/2.0 ASPH
Leica 50mm APO-Summaron-SL f/2.0 ASPH
Leica 35mm APO-Summaron-M f/2.0 ASPH
Leica 50mm APO-Summaron-M f/2.0 ASPH
Leica Q3 43mm APO-Summicron f/2.0 ASPH
Year
2021 -
Model 11184
2018 -
Model 11185
2020 -
Model 11699
2012 -
Model 11141
2024
(Leica Q3 43)
Focus
AF and Manuel
AF and Manuel
Manuel
Manuel
AF and Manuel
Aperture
f/2.0 - f/16
f/2.0 - f/16
f/2.0 - f/16
f/2.0 - f/16
f/2.0 - f/16
Mount
SL Bayonet
for Leica SL cameras
SL Bayonet
for Leica SL cameras
M Bayonet
for Leica M cameras
M Bayonet
for Leica M cameras
Fixed on
Leica Q3 43
Closest distance
27 cm
35 cm
30 cm
70 cm
26.5 cm
Filter size
67mm
67mm
39mm
39mm
49mm
Weight
750g
740g
320g
300g
794g
including camera
Filter size
67mm
67mm
39mm
39mm
49mm
Price
$5,195.00
$5,095.00
$8,495.00
$9,250.00
$6,895.00
including camera
"The roof is on fire" - Leica Q3 43mm MTF
Leica 43mm APO-Summicron f/2.0 ASPH on Leica Q3 43
I'd rather drink coffee and take photos than look at MTF graphs of lenses (Modulation Transfer Function). It is a measurement of a lens, which few can read, but optical designers use a lot in predicting how a lens will potentially perform.
Sort of like a graph, if it were a car, would tell top speed, how fast it gets from 0-100, and how many miles it will go on the gasoline.
The graph of the Leica Q3 43 is out of this world. It beats all of the above lenses.
Basically, what it shows is that the lens is extremely sharp in the center, and that sharpness continues all the way to the corners. With sharpness comes detail level, or clarity.
It doesn't get much better, and that is comforting to know. The Leica Q3 43 lens is apochromatically corrected with 4 aspherical elements.
Leica Q3 43: Is it a real APO lens?
The lens on the Leica Q3 43 is "an APO design" by two Japanese designers (Takehiro Nishioka and Yoshiaki Kurioka), and like the 28mm Summilux on the Leica Q3, Leica takes advantage of it being a fixed lens, meaning that the lens designers can use digital lens distortion correction and more, because the lens only has to perform on this specific camera.
How to read the MTF's: The higher up the lines are, the better sharpness (and details/clarity). Left side of the graph is center of the picture frame, right side is at the edge of the picture frame. In short, the Q3 43 APO is on par with the 50mm APO made for the SL system, and superior to the 50mm APO for the M system.
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When the original Leica Q was released in July 2015, the Leica product manager, Peter Kruschewski, who had been in charge of the very secret development of the Leica Q model, revealed that the 28/1.7 lens was chosen because it resulted in the most compact design:
'We looked at various options, including a 35mm and a 50mm, naturally. In the end, it was the 28mm f/1.7 that gave us the most compact lens, and therefore the smallest camera body. We understand why this might surprise some people, but if our customers clamor for a 35mm or 50mm version, we're willing to make one. But not until we've successfully made the lenses more compact.'
Which then happened. The Leica Q3 43 is not only a compact enough lens, it might turn out to be quite a revolution in the lens lineup for Leica.
Leica Q3 43 with digital crop or 'digital zoom'
By Thorsten von Overgaard
The idea of cropping the Leica Q3 43 image
Part of the original idea of Leica lens designer Peter Karbe and the Leica Q team was that the Leica Q with a 28mm Summilux f/1.7 would produce such detailed photographs that one could use 'digital crop' to crop a 28mm photo into a 35mm, 50mm, 75mm, or even a 90mm image frame. This fits with the compact concept of not having a zoom lens, yet still having the ability to zoom. In the Leica Q3 43, the crop goes all the way to a 150mm crop.
Here are the Leica Q3 43 crop sizes in pixels and megapixels:
43mm = 60,3 MP (9520 x 6336 pixels)
50mm =
44.6 MP (8187 x 5449 pixels) 60mm = 30,8 MP (6816 x 4544 pixels) 75mm = 19,9 MP (5456 x 3632 pixels) 90mm =13,8 MP (4544 x 3024 pixels) 120mm = 7,69 MP (3408 x 2272 pixels) 150mm = 4,92 MP (2796 x 1824 pixels)
Leica chief lens designer Peter Karbe did humorously mention to me once, when we talked about resolution and lens design, that one could 'just have one lens and then crop.' There is no doubt that, in his universe, it's already a done deal. Lens design can be done— and is in fact being done—with a resolution to do just that. All we have been waiting for are sensors with the capability to resolve the resolution those lenses can perform.
A fairly convinding 100% crop of the file: It sure does get even what is written with small letters. Leica Q3 43 at f/2.0, 250 ISO.
They knew back then, as we all fundamentally knew, that future sensors would grow from 24MP to 60MP to 100MP to 150MP and beyond. The Leica Q is designed for that future. That is why the lens on the Leica Q (2015) was unchanged in the next two models, the Leica Q2 and Leica Q3.
Particularly on the Leica Q2 Monochrom (2020), you get an insight into what the lens combined with the lens correction software can accomplish: With a monochrome sensor, every single pixel is dedicated to collecting light, which fundamentally means that you can capture 4x the detail of a color sensor. Two green, one red, and one blue pixel are used on a color sensor to capture the details and the colors. In a monochrome sensor, all pixels are just recording how much light there is. This results in a mind-blowingly detailed image once you zoom in. Small faces in an image can be enlarged, and you see details you wouldn't see in the final print, but you realize they are there.
This gives an idea of how powerful the Leica Q with the 28mm is, and why cropping the image wouldn't hurt. There would still be enough resolution to produce a good photo.
Not easy to convince people 5MP is enough for an image
How do you sell someone who bought a 60MP camera the idea that 5MP is great? It's not an easy sell. People want all the megapixels they paid for. People who bought a 60MP camera just want 60MP images at whichever focal length. So even if I could explain to you that 10MP or even 5MP will do, you'll still want the full megapixel inventory applied to each image.
People have been asking for 35mm and 50mm versions of the Leica Q since the first was released in 2015. After all, the 35mm focal length is the most sold Leica lens, and 50mm is the second most sold focal length. The world population, as far as photography goes, is divided into 35mm and 50mm people.
And now, almost ten years later, it is here: a 'perfect' focal length that enables you to get 'full 60MP resolution' with a standard lens.
Photo: Ralph Gibson for Leica,
2005.
The perfection of the image: APO and 43mm
Here are two things that could possibly improve the image quality of the 28mm Summilux on a 60MP sensor, and then there is a third and fourth. Let me elaborate:
1. 43mm
43mm is a good compromise as most people have asked for a Leica Q with 35mm or 50mm ever since the original Leica Q was released in 2015. The 43mm, however, is more than a compromise. It's the focal length that likely comes closest to how the eye sees, as far as proportions go:
Relative proportions
When you look at a person close to you and there is a truck in the background, the distance is judged by relative size. The person is taller than the truck, so the truck must be quite a bit further away. As the truck comes closer, its relative size to the person standing there increases, and when it is next to him, the truck is much larger than the person.
This is how we measure distances with the eye (and predict speed of movement), and the 43mm format produces images that are similar to this way of judging sizes and distances.
If you take a photo with a wide-angle lens, the truck is very small, potentially very far away from the person. If you put on a telephoto lens, the background is pulled toward you, and the truck appears closer than it is.
The curious thing is that the eye sees as wide as a 9mm-24mm, but the size proportion is like a 43mm (the reason being that you scan areas of the viewing field and stitch them together as a single concept of vision).
Other than that, you will see ideas that the 43mm focal length matches the diagonal of a full-frame sensor (24x36), which is 43mm, and this should make it all match. It may or may not have any influence. This may also result in the 43mm focal length delivering the light rays at a perfect angle into the sensor pixels. I am purely performing some wishful speculating here, but...
Also, as a detail, the original Ur-Leica made as early prototype in 1914, had a 42mm lens on it. The diagonal of a medium format sensor, 60 x 60 mm, is 84mm. Aha!
Photo: Ralph Gibson for Leica,
2005.
2. APO
With their many new APO lens designs in recent years, Leica has reached a 'next level image quality,' as chief lens designer Peter Karbe expresses it. They learned a lot from making excellent lenses for APS-C cameras like the Leica TL2, but also wanted to make larger lenses for the Leica SL system, as well as the Leitz Cine, to utilize the quality possible to perfection.
'We had to implement many small steps, but everywhere, which add up to a lot in the end,' as Peter Karbe expresses it. This includes coatings, glass types, in-house grinding of glass, adjustment of lens centering, and precision in assembling. All this adds up to the next level of image quality that one sees in newer Leica lens designs. The 28mm Summilux f/1.7 on the Leica Q (2015) is a product of this, and now they have taken it further.
In lens design, one talks about aberrations, which means anything that leads away from a straight route. What lens designers deal with is minimizing or removing aberrations. All the work in precision, coatings, and everything Leica has been working on has had the aim of making the image clearer and more true to reality.
One of the big leaps is APO, which is not a new concept, as it has been used in long telephoto lenses. APO stands for 'apochromatically corrected,' which might be too large a word to take in for us today. Let me instead explain what it does. In lens design, APO means that the lens is specially engineered to reduce or eliminate color fringing, which happens when different colors of light don't focus at the same point.
APO corrected basically means that the three colors that make up every color photo (and monochrome photo)—red, green, and blue—have been corrected to meet more precisely at the same spot. Clarity of colors and definition of details are the result.
As you can imagine, if we are pointing a telescope at the stars, the light rays can separate quite a bit, which then creates a blurred image. You can't see details. It is mainly the red light that separates, so even though light travels at the speed of light, red light travels at a different speed. Scientists say it is 'delayed,' which is a fun way to avoid admitting that the speed of light differs, but in any case, the red light needs correction to land in the same spot to make a clear image.
When Leica has made APO telephoto lenses, they have always prided themselves on applying APO to the entire frame, not just the center sharpness.
Then Leica chief lens designer Peter Karbe got the idea to apply APO to the Leica 50mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4 standard lens, which was released in 2004. But he found that putting APO on the lens name was a bit over the top, because APO is traditionally only used for telephoto lenses.
Since then, it has taken on its own life, most recently with a 35mm APO wide-angle lens for the Leica M system and a 21mm APO lens for the Leica SL system.
Thanks to APO and other improvements in precision lens design, Peter Karbe and his team have also managed to make an f/2.0 lens appear as if it is an f/1.4 lens in terms of narrow depth of focus. An f/2.0 lens will offer a look similar to f/1.4 in terms of narrow depth of focus but with greater sharpness at the point of focus.
The lack of aberrations results in much more contrast at the point of focus than in an ordinary lens, and this contrast falls off very quickly in front of and behind the point of focus. This is how an f/2 lens can appear to have the same depth of focus as an f/1.4 lens—creating a more blurred out-of-focus background.
3. Leica Q3 43 Color Science and Monochrome quality
When a lens can resolve details precisely, it results in more accurate colors (and monochrome tones as well).
While many are blown away by the sharpness and 'how small details you can see when you enlarge an APO photo,' it's the unseen details of the capture that make up the clarity and natural colors of the photo. It is very similar to high fidelity in music. We can all hear the music no matter what it is played on, but there is a level where every minute vibration of every instrument and voice is recorded and played on speakers so they appear. Same music, but now with so much more.
Same with an APO photo. Same photo, but now there are so many more details that make up the whole.
What is a good lens? Peter Karbe says a good lens is 'when you go closer, you see more,' which is understandable in the way a lens designer would measure it.
For me, a good lens is one that makes colors, textures, skin, hair, shapes, and everything else look so natural I can sense how it would feel to touch it. Fundamentally, remove the optics, sensor, and all of it, and when there is only the image, exactly what you saw, it is pure truth.
And yes, at other times I seek the timeless and elegant, which oftentimes may involve using an older lens that sees things softer and with some level of 'natural hallucination.' You could call it classic (like the 50mm Rigid from the 1950s), and some of them are 'rock'n'roll' lenses—like the 50mm Noctilux.
Beneath their possible perfection, Leica lenses, however, have in common that they all possess the ability to capture the true details of the matter and texture; their differences lie in how they paint with light on top of it.
The legacy of Leica lens designers has been, throughout the last 100 years, that they pushed the technical capabilities of glass, design, grinding, coatings, and assembling, but at the same time, they knew how to add soul to it. This is when you work beyond what a machine or a scientific calculation can tell you to do; when you make decisions that affect the soul and feel of the image, rather than just trying to get the best performance numbers.
We remember Muhammad Ali not for his points scored, but for his overall performance as a person and a boxer. Similarly, few care to read a lens' numbers to see if it is great. You look at the images.
The Leica lenses, from the early beginnings to the present time and the Leica Q3 43mm APO, have that touch of magic in that they actually capture the details that make up texture, skin, and forms, and then they add the magic of painting with light. What the APO generation of lenses contributes to the mix is less undesirable light noise or hit-and-miss reflections, so that what is of essence stands out cleaner and clearer.
With the 43mm f/2.0 also comes a narrower depth of focus than the 28mm f/1.7. It's just how it is: the longer the focal length, the narrower the depth of focus, and the easier it is to produce blurred backgrounds and foregrounds.
For me, the key selling point of the Leica Q3 43 is that it is closer to my usual preferred 50mm lens, and that it has APO.
That said, APO also, at least when Peter Karbe's optical team makes them, makes an f/2.0 lens appear as an f/1.4 lens in terms of narrow depth of field, simply by controlling the area in focus that has higher contrast, while the out-of-focus backgrounds reduce quickly in contrast and thus appear further away.
Depth of Field as seen by the extreme f/0.95 50mm Leica Noctilux lens: Focus is on the flowers and the photograph on the desk, and the foreground and background are blurred as the depth of focus is narrow. You can produce something similar with a 28mm f/1.7 if you go closer, because the closer you focus, the narrower the depth of focus will be. Similarly, the further away the background, the less in focus it will be (long backgrounds or 'long shot').
I have made a few essential Presets for Lightroom that does minor adjustments to the Leica files, so as to get the tones the exact way I want. To get the "Leica look", rather than a “digital sensor look”.
The Leica Q (2015) was designed by Vincent Laine who had made his own ideas of future Leica designs back home in Sweden. This led to him becoming first an intern with Leica in Wetzlar, Germany, and then an employee. One of his projects was to design the Leica Q.
It is safe to say that modern simplicity met the classic simplicity of Leica, which was founded back in 1925 when Oskar Barnack wanted a small, portable camera with high-quality optics and mechanical engineering. To the right is the 1918-prototype he made.
It's a hard act to follow, but the first Leica Q (2015) was so perfect - thanks to Vincent Laine, the product manager and the lens designers - that the only thing to improve in the next generation, the Leica Q2 (2019), was small adjustments to the optical viewfinder and moving the diopter adjustment so it wasn't in the way. The rest remained unchanged, and is very close in thought and look to the opriginal Leica design from 100 yeras before.
Vincent Laine went onto Hasselblad where he designed the Hasselblad 907X and then he moved onto designing award-winning luggage, tables and other things.
With the Leica Q3 (2023), a flip-up screen was introduced to the design. Not as elegant as the fliush screen on the back of the previous Leica Q2 and Leica Q. But practical, and something people have grown used to from Sony, Fuji and other brands.
With the Leica Q3 43 (2024), the only change is the 43mm APO-Summicron lens, which brings the Leica Q models into an even higher level optical design.
The square Q3 43 shade doesn't leave space for filters
The square shade for the Leica Q3 43 that comes with the camera is designed to let in a minimum amount of stray light from the sides.
It is made so tight that you cannot mount a normal filter on the lens. In particular if you turn on Macro becuase the front of the lens extrudes when you turn to Macro mode, and then there's even less space for any filter.
Not that you have to use a filter, actually. I personally never use UV filters on my lenses, only ND (neutral density) and occasionally a color filer for black & white photography.
The filter doesn't fit on the Leica Q3 43 when the square shade is on. Not enough space for filters.
The ventilated shade leave space for filters ... and it looks cool
If you want to use a filter, you will have to forgo the square shade that comes with the Leica Q3 43, or use the ventilated shade I designed for the Leica Q back in 2015, which sits on the outside thread of the lens and leaves space for filters on the E49 (49mm) filter thread on the lens. It also leaves space to mount and unmount the filter without removing the shade. If you want to use a Variable ND filter or a Polarizing filter, you can rotate it with your fingers, even with the ventilated shade on the camera.
The metal lens cap that comes with the Leica Q3 43 doesn't fit on the square hood, but my ventilated shade comes with a lens cap (or you can use an original Leica E49 lens cap)
"What's the point of a ventilated shade?" you may ask. It is to protect the camera and lens and to shade against unwanted stray light from the side that would wash out the image. The reason it is 'ventilated' is for the classic look. It simply looks better than the square hood. The original Leica M models have a viewfinder, and the lens hood shades part of the view, so that’s why there are 'vents' in them, allowing them to cover less of the view.
The original Ventilated Shade for Leica Q designed by Thorsten Overgaard for "Always Wear A Camera" sits on the outside screw mount of the lens and leave space for E49 filters and lens caps on the lens' inside 49mm screw. Available in black paint, matte black paint, RED, Safari Green and Silver. This shade fits Leica Q3 43 and all Leica Q models and comes with a E49 plastic lens cap.
There's a ring you may want to use
In the original box the Leica Q3 43 came in, there is a mysterious ring. If you wonder, it is a spare part that fits the outside thread of the lens, if you take off the shade and want to use the camera without a shade.
Leica used to deliver lenses and cameras with the 'mysterious' ring attached, and the shade in the box, but many people had a hard time figuring out how to mount the shade (as you had to remove the ring first). So now they do it the opposite way: The camera comes with the shade on, and the ring is an accessory in the box.
The mysterious ring you find in the box fits the front of the lens when you remove the hood.
"The Ashtray"
The metal lens cap that is really fancy comes with the Leica Q3 43 and will fit onto the square shade. It also fits the Leica Q3 43 when there is no hood on it, and you put on the ring mentioned above. Retail price is $119.00.
Original Leica alu lens cap.
Original E49 Leica lens cap
The E49 Leica lens cap is an accessory for the Leica Q3 43. It fits on the lens when there is no shade on it or if you use a ventilated shade. If you're used to using them on your Leica lenses, you may want this one to complete the look. This type of lens cap is what most Leica lenses comes with. Retail price for this little beauty is $49.00.
The Leica Q3 43 has the same 6MP EVF (Electronic Viewfinder) as the Leica Q3, and the same resolution as the Leica SL3 viewfinder.
Despite that, the 43mm focal length somehow makes me want a better EVF, because even when the AF nails it, the image still looks blurred. All I can do is trust that the AF worked and the image will be in focus.
I compared it with the Leica Q3, and they’re the same, but somehow I got used to the 28mm being in focus, and it looked all right.
But then I discovered this:
Leica Q3 43: The solution to get sharp previews in the EVF
The Leica Q3 43 comes with the diopter adjustment turned all the way to one side (everything is blurry, I’ve never received a camera delivered where it wasn’t set to 20/20 normal eyesight).
All right, not a big problem. There is a diopter adjustment button to the right of the viewfinder window on the back of the camera.
Adjust the Diopter Adjustment on the Leica Q3 43 so the image is sharp (not the info text).
If you adjust the diopter so the text in the EVF looks sharp, you're doing it wrong. Becuase the image will eb blurred. The image and the text is not on the same focal plane. Instead, adjust the diopter to get the ideal image. Like this:
Here’s how to get the image sharp in detail:
Press the Diopter Adjustment Wheel so it pops out.
Take a photo with the camera.
Press PLAY to see the preview in the EVF.
Adjust the diopter wheel until the image is sharp.
Press the diopter adjustment dial back into the body so it stays in place.
Now, when you use AF, you can see that the details are in focus. The info text below and above the image will be slightly blurred because the image screen and the info text are not on the same focal plane. This is the same for all EVFs, by the way.
Adjust for the preview image, not the text, because otherwise the image will not be detailed enough.
Leica Q3 43 adjusted for sharp text but blurry image:
Leica Q3 43 adjusted for sharp image:
iAF makes sense on the Leica Q3 43
The iAF "Intelligent Auto Focus" on the Leica Q3 43 makes a lot of sense with this 43mm focal length and the type of photos you use it for (mostly portraits, street photography and reportage).
In the Leica Q3 with its 28mm focal length, I use AFs, which is a single point that focuses when you press the shutter release halfway down - and stays locked at that focus distance as long as you hold the shutter release halfway down (point the focusing spot to where you want the focus to be, press the release half down, reframe to have in the photo what you want, exclude what you don't want. Press the shutter release full down to take the photo).
In the Leica Q3 43, I find I am best served with iAF, which is where the camera shifts between AFs and AFs, the latter being where the autofocus keeps tracking the subject's distance. It's a super-annoying motion as you can feel the camera's AF-motor working to continious follow focus on the subject. But for a portrait, if the person moves slightly, or you do, the focus switches to AFc "continuous," thus keeping the focus despite movement.
I use Focus Spot, which is the small cross + in the center that I can move to another place in the frame (but seldom do). You may want to experiment with other types of focusing, depending on your subject type.
But with a 43mm focal length and using the lens at f/2.0 for a narrow depth of focus, iAF can be a help to nail the focus, despite small movements, while utilizing the narow depth of focus.
AFs "single" focus lock for things that doesn't move
Not a big fan of autofocus to begin with, I tend to not like using AF. So when people start complaining about slow AF or rave about super-fast AF, I’m just not getting it. To me, the Leica Q3 43 focuses well, and as fast as I need it. No complaints.
I use the AF on the Leica Q3 43 about half, or maybe most of the time. But a great deal of the time, I go to manual focus, as about 30% of Leica Q users do statistically. Because it’s so damn easy, it gives you more control, and it’s faster (once you get used to it).
If you want excellent autofocus, Sony is the master of fast autofocus. But for me... ha ha, would I sacrifice the Leica simplicity and optical quality to get something I dislike in the first place ... autofocus? Nah, never.
Autofocus is the idea that the camera does the focusing itself (the word 'auto' comes from the Greek for 'self'). Ironically and factually, it does not work that easily, which is why many types of autofocus have been added.
Autofocus was supposed to make it easy for the user to get sharp photos but tends to become like a child you have to keep an eye on so it doesn't run out into the street.
Think of it what you want. The Leica Q3 43 has a great and easy-to-use Manual Focusing which might turn you into one of those who prefer manual focusing at times:
Manual focus in the Leica Q3 43
This is a big thing for the leica Q3 43 as it actually works really well, and about 30% of Leica Q users use manual focusing rather than Auto Focusing.
When you go to manual focusing (simply turn the focusing ring so it un-clicks from its locked position), the EVF will automatically zoom in once you start turning the focusing ring on the lens, and this way you can make your focusing very precise.
You can change he degree of zoom detail by pressing the SET button (the round button between the arrows on the back) and it will shift from 6x to 3x enlargement of the focus area.
Manual focusing is how it used to be, and I am all for how things used to be.
You "see a photo," and in that instance, you also intuitively know what to have in the frame and what to exclude. If you work with a narrow depth of focus (as in using the 43mm lens at f/2.0), you also intuitively know what the focus should be at.
Don’t ask me how you know all this in an instant, how you "see a photo", but you do. It’s one of the things that distinguish you from being a machine or AI. You possess intuition, the ability to reason, and you can know without knowing why.
Now, the glory of manual focus is that you point the camera at the point that you know should be in focus, and then you set the focus by turning the focusing ring until you see that the detail is sharp. (Now you have measured the distance, which is what focusing is).
Then you reframe to include a pleasant composition of things. Another thing you just know how to do, unless you keep telling yourself it needs to be learned.
You take the photo, and by golly, focus is right where you set it!
Now, maybe you also want to involve the right "timing": You want a person to look a certain way, or a child to come kiss their mother. Manual focus is made for this, because all you have to do is "hold the frame" and wait for the right moment. Manual focus doesn’t move, it stays where you set it just before.
Now, explaining autofocus where you want it to focus, and making it stay there and not re-focus on the background or something else just at the moment the boy kisses his mother, is what makes autofocus so advanced that it requires really modern cameras and users who know how to read a big manual.
In any case, one of the glorious things about the Leica Q models and the Leica Q3 43 is that changing between autofocus and manual focus is so easy, and both work so well, depending on what the task at hand is.
A 43mm lens makes a lot of sense for video, as well as 8K video, which is now supported by YouTube.
The Leica Q (model 116) of June 2015 was born with 4K video, Leica Camera AG decided not to put it into use due to battery and heat considerations. In the Leica Q2 (2019) we got full 4K video, in the Leica Q3 (2023) and Leica Q3 43 (2024) we got 8K video.
The Leica Q3 43 have ports for external screen and microphones (USB-C and Mini HDMI) and with more updates supposed to come November 2024 the Leica Q3 43 will support more microphone USB-C choices so you can use Røde wireless microphones like the Røde Wireless GO stereo set or the Røde Video Go II shotgun microphone and record directly into the video track (instead of having to match sound with video after).
The Røde Video Go II shotgun microphone will be compatible with the Leica Q3 in an expected firmware update November 2024.
How to make sense of doing video with the Leica Q3 43
Doing video on a camera with autofocus is never as easy or as 'auto' as it sounds, and then there is the sound that comes from the two built-in stereo microphones on top of the camera. And the color temperature and exposure, naturally.
Just turning the Leica Q3 43 to video and starting recording easily results in video recordings where the autofocus changes when it's not supposed to, the sound is either very 'thin' or the user's breathing and handling of the camera is very prominent in the recording.
You need some more gear to make it work, but once you do, it can be rather easy and very high quality.
Putting the Leica Q3 43 on a tripod and using a wireless or external microphone, and controlling it all from the Leica Fotos App on a smartphone or iPad ... this will work!
You set the camera to AFs and Spot, and in the Leica Fotos App, you tap on the face of the person to 'set focus,' and it will remain in focus throughout the video.
You may also choose AFc and Eye/Face/Body Detection, and the camera will continuously look for a face and eyes to snap focus onto, and adjust continuously if the face moves. This will work in theory, and you will find out after you've finished the video if the AF, for moments, snapped onto something else.
It all comes together with 8K resolution, 43mm lens and ability to use wireless microphones. Here it is Nick Rains from Leica Store Melbourne who is recording a video using AFc and Eye/Face/Body Detection.
Leica Q3 43 battery for video
In video, you want to avoid potential issues like losing focus, the camera running out of battery, the camera timing out, the microphone disconnecting, etc.
One very cool thing to limit things that can go wrong (if you work with a tripod) is to get the Leica DC-SCL6 USB-C DC-Coupler, which allows you to power the camera continuously via a USB-C charger, for example, a MacBook charger. Particularly, the Leica SL3 and the Leica Q3 43 have very specific power requirements, so if the battery runs low, they may stop recording in the middle of it all (they may look like they are running, but the back screen will show a message that the battery is too low to perform 4K or 8K recording, etc.). In any case, that USB-C DC-Coupler is genius to use: one less thing that can go wrong!
The Leica DC-SCL6 USB-C DC-Coupler ensures a continuous power supply for your never-ending video
More control of your video
It can be a good idea to use a separate iPad or phone to control the camera as phone calls (even when on silent) during video can interrupt or pause the video recording. Turning on Airplane mode obviously won't work as you need WiFi and Bluetooth to connect with and control the camera.
Shutter speed for video should always be set to 1/60
Fundamentally, video is 1/50th of a second, so you set the shutter speed dial of the Leica Q3 43 to 1/60th second and adjust aperture and ISO accordingly to get the exposure correct. You can also use a variable ND filter to adjust exposure.
Upgrading to more video equipment
The most ideal Leica for video is without doubt the Leica SL2-S which has a great 24MP sensor that just works excellent with Leica SL and Leica S lenses (and Leitz Cine lenses).
The Leica Q3 43 has a slightly different color profile than the Leica Q3. The DNG raw photos must be edited, and for that, the choices are Capture One Pro or Adobe Lightroom. I use both for different things, and part of 'shooting in' or 'dialing in the colors' of a new camera is deciding which workflow performs the best colors or monochrome tones.
Capture One Pro prides itself on having released a new version of Capture One Pro on the same day the Leica Q3 43 was released, September 26, 2024.
Adobe Lightroom will follow a bit later with a Camera RAW profile for the Leica Q3 43.
I don’t have an answer for you, but here is what I look at, and this is what I see:
Lightroom Classic has cooler (or cleaner) skin tones with its default Adobe Color profile, and they apply a somewhat "good amount of sharpness," which results in impressive (and frankly, maybe more contrasty micro-details than you want). It can be adjusted, but this is their default.
Capture One has warmer skin tones and a more moderate (natural?) application of sharpening. A slight green tint causes some concern on my part.
"Dialing in" a new camera and sensor is work. It takes some time and some photos. It has to be done.
I have written this article, "The Camera Color Compendium of Measured Kelvin Values for Leica and Hasselblad Cameras," which tries to understand what is "wrong with that picture" when colors are off. It’s a very nerdy piece of work and was made to understand the background of colors from different cameras. I will be publishing more articles on color science as it evolves.
Monochrome JPGs from the Leica Q3 43 ...
Monochrome JPG straight out of the Leica Q3 43
Leica Q3 43: Edited DNG into black & white.
Part of testing a new camera is to see how it handles black-and-white tones in-camera. Most cameras you can set to do DNG+JPG so that you make a DNG raw (which is always color) and JPG of the same photo, as you cake it. The JPG can then be set to black & white (or a Leica Look or Fuji look, depending on camera brand and what presets they offer).
Since the Leica M9 (2009) presented fantastic, amazing, film-like black & white JPGs straight out of the camera, it’s always been a question, "How will this new model do them?" and none of them does it like the Leica M9.
In fact, with every new model, the JPG's straight out of camera have become less impressive and less usable. Since the Leica M10, I have made it a habit to edit DNG raw photos into color edits, then make a 'virtual copy' and create the black & white version based on the edited color version.
In my opinion, the Leica Q3 43’s black-and-white JPGs straight out of the camera are not as good as the result you can get by converting a DNG to black & white.
You should experiment with it, but if you find it like me, you can skip the JPG and only make DNG and save some memory card space.
What I see is that reds are washed out, as you can see on the red lips in the photo above. But mainly it makes skin tones look thin and digital - which is strangely the opposite of the Leica M11 (very bad JPG's), where the reds are too heavy and make skin tones look heavy and the faces older.
For photos where faces and skin tones are not prominent, monochrome JPG straight out of the camera can work.
To save ourselves a long discussion and time: Edit the DNG raw color files into black and white, using either the "Desaturate" tool or any preset you like for black-and-white style photos.
My impression of the Leica Q3 43 is that the colors are not over-saturated, except for the blue, which is strong. Any blue street sign or blue garbage bin somewhere in the photo stands out. But else I feel confident with these colors.
The DNG out of the camera seems a bit high in contrast, or "heavy on the black," which reminds me of the Leica SL2 sensor (a different generation, the 47MP sensor generation). The bright areas in a photo seem to go higher , and dark areas seem to go deeper, which isn't what you would associate with a wide dynamic range.
Now, just because the sensor generation of 60MP is fundamentally the same hardware doesn’t mean that the same model 60MP sensor in the Leica SL3, Leica M11, Leica Q3, and even the Leica Q3 43 will produce the same image. Each camera model has its own profiling, jsut because it has, but also because Leica SL cameras are made primary for SL lenses, the Leica M for Leica M mount lenses, and the Leica Q models obviously for fixed lenses that are tightly integrated withe the overall concept, including the use of software-optimization of the image even before it's written to the memory card.
Lightroom Classic
edit of the Leica Q3 43 with the built-in profile in Adobe Camera RAW. 1600 ISO f/2.0.
Capture One Pro
edit of the Leica Q3 43 with the built-in profile in Capture One. 1600 ISO f/2.0.
The curious thing is that I find Lightroom does a better job; it has cleaner and better-balanced colors, in my opinion. Adobe Camera RAW, which is the profile in Lightroom and Photoshop that defines how the raw data from the Leica Q3 43 is translated into colors, has been in the system since version 16.4 (June 2024).
I have been editing the same photos side-by-side in Lightroom and Capture One for a while now, and in most cases, Capture One just doesn't do what I want it to. It's very surprising because for several years Capture One has been the cleaner and more color-accurate of the two editing software.
On sharpening, Lightroom does more than is necessary for such a high-definition file made with such a detailed lens. Capture One leaves things more natural, and I think that is preferable and more in line with the Leica philosophy of a "soft, but detailed" look.
.
100% crop of the Lightroom file.
Leica Q3 43,
1600 ISO f/2.0.
100% crop of the capture One file.
Leica Q3 43,
1600 ISO f/2.0.
One can actually also edit Leica Q3 43 photos in Phocus, which is free software from Hasselblad. While I have lots of praise for their color science, it's a heavy tool to use. There is also Phocus Mobile 2 for iPad, which is quite simple to use, but limited in keywords and organizing. For those who want to indulge in this, I invite you to try it and let me know your findings. One could have specific photos that are worth some extra color work.
Leica Q3 43 Color fidelity
As mentioned, I haven't gotten quite used to the rather "hard" look of the Leica Q3 43 files yet; where the bright tones seem to easily burn out while the darker tones seem to sink into further darkness. Other than that, I like the non-saturated look of the files.
To be unfair, below is a comparison of the Leica Q3 43 ($6,895) and the Hasselblad 907X ($13,000 with lens), and while I am impressed with the lens of the Leica Q3 43, I see there is more work to do with the digitally recorded files.
These are small images on a screen, and there is more to see in the original files (You can download the high resolution JPG files of these three photos here). But let's be frank, very few people would raise an eyebrow at any of these. They look at the image, and they think it is pretty.
The essence really is that we get a tool and we 'dial it in' to a point where we trust that it works. We have confidence that we can make what we see into the images we imagine. It's not more difficult than that.
Most likely, a Leica Q user will get a Leica M within weeks or months
It is almost a statistical fact that more than half of those who buy a Leica Q model end up with a Leica M model. A smaller percentage gravitate to the Leica SL3 system, which is - logically - more of an expansion of the Leica Q model technology.
It's so predictable that even when you research the Leica Q model, you already drool over the Leica M. You know where this is going, but you tell yourself you will just get a Leica Q model.
That the Leica M is the next step is easy to understand because it is an emotional choice, and the Leica Q models are a resurgence of why you originally wanted to photograph.
Nobody ever had an urge to photograph and then decided it should result in a large collection of lenses and a camera, preferably in a system so advanced it can't be figured out easily, and at the same time so heavy that the greatest pleasure is finding reasons to leave it at home.
You had an urge to photograph because you want to preserve and beautify life, and you want to walk the streets and travel the world as an adventurer, storyteller, and visual poet.
These qualities are exactly what the Leica Q models are designed to bring out. In fact, they don't have any of the stuff that can be discussed for days on photo forums.
The Leica Q3 and Leica Q3 43 APO have some qualities over the Leica Q (2015) and Leica Q2 (2019) that appeal to 'nerds' who used to use Sony, Fujifilm, or other cameras that come with 750 menu items and plenty of Fn (Function) buttons on the camera that you can program yourself.
A friend here locally used to have Sony and suitcases full of Sony lenses, as well as more suitcases with vintage lenses from all around the world, fitted for his Sony. But then he got a Leica Q3 and got rid of it all. As an advanced and 'technological user,' he liked all the fancy settings on the Sony, but he liked the quality of the images from the Leica Q3 better. As an advanced user, he uses some of the advanced features in the Leica Q3 that I wouldn't necessarily use, such as Eye/Face/Body Detection. For him, it just nails the most ridiculous, impossible photos.
The Eye/Face/Body Detection is where the Leica Q3 43 throws out three boxes that detects bodies or faces, and occasionally it detects eyes and marks the face and eyes. You can use the left and right arrow to select which box to use for focusing (or touch screen). This can almost be done 'in blind' when you get used to it: There is always three boxes, and with some certainty you can predict which three objects in front of the camera the focus will select, and if it's the person tot he right you want in tocus, you move the curser two clicks to the right and that is the box it focuses with.
When you look at the screen, it looks slow, or delayed, but the actual focusing is faster than the preview on the screen, and while some might trash it in annoyance, he used it enought to realize that the auto focus is "Faster than his own shadow").
The Leica Q3 focus modes look sticky and slow on the preview, but in fact, they nail it, even when you didn't think so. Like Lucky Luke, who's known for being "Faster than his own shadow." By Morris (Maurice De Bevere, 1923-2001).
I mention these as I see 'tech nerds' gravitate to the Leica Q3, which has included more nerdy features of the kind that weren't in the Leica Q2 (2019) and Leica Q (2015), but which those 'tech nerds' are well familiar with and believe no photo can be made without.
Also, I spoke with a gentleman from London who hit me up on LinkedIn a few days ago, and we spoke for half an hour. Same scenario: a ton of Sony lenses, but the Leica Q3 was what he felt would bring him back to photography. High quality, compact, loveable. He just needed to get confirmation that he hadn't lost his mind.
Getting Back to the Soul of Photography
The point of photography is not to have, at home in a closet, all the equipment one would ever need to capture any possible photo. The idea of photography is to take pictures and feel good about it.
Sending it all back to the dealer and simply having just a Leica Q model is like selling your three houses and traveling from one exotic hotel to the next with just a suitcase. It's liberating, and if there is one common denominator among the Leica folks I meet, it's that they don't want to be bothered with all the cheap stuff in life. They just want to focus and be good at the few things they feel are important.
I am not reading you your future; this is rather my advice on what direction to look in:
The Leica M10-P is the Leica M camera to get, and here are the reasons. This is a camera that makes you feel like you took the photo, that you worked for it, made a decision, and nailed it. It also feels like a film camera, and due to the dampened shutter (which was introduced with the Leica M10-P), it may almost sound like a film camera.
The Leica M10-P is 100 years of evolution from the Leica that was invented in 1925, refined into a digital camera, and the M10 models have been going strong since 2017 with no odd colors, no freezing, or anything.
The Leica M10-P is a workhorse, and it's only available second-hand (saved you $5,000 right there), except for a few stacked in the back of some Hong Kong or Austrian camera stores. Also, this model exists in limited-edition versions like Safari Green, all White, and a few others if you want it to be a truly personal experience.
The lens for the camera should be either the Leica Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4 or the Leica 35mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4. Pick any used or new model—these lenses have been the gold standard for getting stuff done for the past 15-20 years.
The Leica M10-P is the refined modern version of the Leica M models. Tested since 2017, it's proven to work and keep working. It has the speed, the ISO dial, the silent shutter, and 24MP files that are comfortable to work with. Another love of my life, the Leica M9 is also shown in this picture, and it is still a lovely camera, but not as much a production machine as the Leica M10.
Leica Q3 43: No Turning Back Now
You'll love every minute of it as your savings account's balance decreases and you eye new, interesting pieces of Leica to own. You will get to a point where $13,500 for a Noctilux lens seems perfectly reasonable, and where the fact that a lens is limited and Black Paint is the only sensible thing to own, despite the premium.
One thing that gets you is the lens quality and the 'Leica Look,' and the Leica Q3 43 will open your eyes to a whole new world of Leica APO lenses, of which there are many. They are expensive, but they are ... oh, so beautiful.
In short, you will change your thinking from where it was about megapixels and features to where it is about doing what you love, with tools that you love.
You will know this so thoroughly that even when the clerk in the big camera store in New York shakes his head while trying to sell you volume for the buck, you know this is what is right for you.
"You are your own imprisoner and your own liberator".
Also, the Leica Q3 43 is the prequel to the Leica M
Yes, it is the gateway drug to the original Leica M models. In that sense, the Leica Q models and the Leica Q3 43 are the prequel to the Leica M, now presented 100 years after the original that changed all photography forever.
A beautiful camera designed to inspire.
One of the original Leica prototypes from before 1925 was sold at auction in 2022. I was there, but it wasn't me who bought it. Instead, I wrote this article about the auction.
A lot more, actually. Sign up for the newsletter to stay in the know. As always, you are welcome to send me an email for any questions, ideas or advice.
/Thorsten Overgaard
Thorsten Overgaard with the Leica Q3 43. Photo with Leica SL3 and Leica 35mm Summilux-SL f/1.4.
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Thorsten von Overgaard is a Danish-American multiple award-winning photographer, known for his writings about photography and Leica cameras. He travels to more than 25 countries a year, photographing and teaching workshops to photographers. Some photos are available as signed editions via galleries or online. For specific photography needs, contact Thorsten Overgaard via email.
You can follow Thorsten Overgaard at his television channel magicoflight.tv.
I am in constant orbit teaching
Leica and photography workshops.
Most people prefer to explore a
new place when doing my workshop.
30% of my students are women.
35% of my students dotwo or more workshops.
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Age range is from 15 to 87 years
with the majority in the 30-55 range.
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to a lifetime of experience.
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